Amazing Sicily for all seasons, with delightful villages and hotels you must visit
Navigating through a dense forest of pine and eucalyptus trees, you can find yourself surrounded by grassy dunes and an expansive sandy beach, with a seemingly endless sea stretching out before me. The only signs of life are the majestic eagles and peregrine falcons soaring gracefully above.
This untouched beauty is reminiscent of the landscapes one would expect to find in South Africa or Australia. However, this captivating scene is located in Sicily, the southern Italian island more commonly associated with bustling cities, flashy costume jewelry, and vibrant cocktails inspired by the sporadic lava eruptions of Mount Etna. Despite being just an hour south of the capital city, Palermo, the summer crowds have vanished, allowing the island’s tranquility to resurface.
Until recently, this region, situated between the towns of Sciacca and Agrigento, consisted mainly of weather-beaten fishing villages and industrial ports, lacking in truly enchanting accommodations. However, last year marked a turning point with the introduction of Adler Sicilia.
Nestled discreetly into a hillside overlooking a five-mile stretch of beach, this resort is situated on the outskirts of the Torre Salsa Nature Reserve. This sanctuary serves as a haven for nesting sea turtles and migratory birds, including purple herons, honey buzzards, peregrine falcons, and even flamingos.
Guests are encouraged to fully embrace this precious natural environment, with organized treks through the reserve and into the surrounding countryside on e-bikes. Alternatively, one can opt for a more leisurely experience by grabbing one of the hotel’s beach bags, complete with a towel, sunbed mattress, and water, and strolling down to the beach.
The Adler group, renowned for its luxurious alpine spa hotels, has applied the same level of Germanic precision and attention to detail in creating an exceptional spa at its Sicilian location. The spa is a harmonious blend of stone, wood, and cutting-edge technology, offering an extensive range of wellness facilities that can be overwhelming to navigate.
Guests are faced with the delightful dilemma of choosing between lounging by the indoor/outdoor pool or engaging in a vigorous workout in the lap pool. They can also opt to participate in invigorating yoga or pilates classes, or indulge in one of the 40 different massages available in the labyrinthine treatment rooms. To conclude a day of pampering, guests can unwind in a sauna, a steam room infused with the fragrant essence of Sicilian herbs, or the bubbling thalasso pool with its captivating view of the sea.
After immersing oneself in the realm of wellness, one may find themselves drawn to the restaurant, where an all-inclusive buffet awaits. However, the term “buffet” fails to capture the extravagant and indulgent experience that awaits. For instance, on Seafood Night, an exquisite display of raw Sicilian tuna, red prawns, langoustines, clams, oysters, and sea urchin is presented with such artistry that it resembles a captivating installation piece.
The surrounding area offers a plethora of attractions beyond the hotel’s premises. A mere half an hour’s drive to the east lies Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples Archaeological Park, a remarkable collection of ancient Greek temples renowned for being the best-preserved examples of their kind worldwide. For those seeking a wine-tasting experience, the Planeta Ulmo wine estate near the town of Menfi, an hour’s drive to the west, is a must-visit destination.
The fishing port of Sciacca is also worth exploring, with its charming narrow streets, seafood restaurants, and ceramics shops.
After spending a few days exploring the coast, I embarked on a 90-minute journey inland, passing through orange and olive groves, silent hill towns, and abandoned farms, eventually reaching the agricultural heart of Sicily.
At the end of a bumpy, unmade road, surrounded by hills covered in wheat fields and wildflowers, lies the Susafa estate. Once a dilapidated masseria, or farming community, the estate underwent a renovation project in the early 2000s led by Manfredi Rizzuto and his family, who transformed the cluster of farm buildings into a unique hotel.
In Sicilian dialect, Susafa translates to “it can be done,” which has become the family’s mission statement to restore the estate to its self-sufficient roots.
The farm utilizes wheat and grains sourced from the surrounding fields to produce high-quality breads and pasta. If interested, individuals have the opportunity to participate in a class to learn the art of making these culinary delights. Additionally, the farm cultivates cherries, apricots, oranges, and strawberries, which are then used to create delectable jams and tarts. The evening menu features lamb, chicken, and beef sourced directly from the estate, accompanied by freshly picked fava beans, carrots, and courgettes from the garden.
Despite embracing a back-to-nature philosophy, the accommodations at Susafa are far from basic. While the exterior may exude a weathered appearance, the interior boasts the utmost style, charm, and comfort reminiscent of a luxurious Milanese hotel. Guests can indulge in the grandeur of enormous beds, rain showers, and an infinity pool nestled within the gardens. Furthermore, the magnificent Old Granary, with its vaulted ceilings, provides an enchanting setting for candlelit dining experiences featuring delectable dishes such as lamb, stuffed ravioli, and local cheese platters.
The roof terrace lounge offers uninterrupted panoramic views of rolling hills, wooded valleys, and a serene absence of urbanization. Despite being a mere 90-minute drive from Palermo, the bustling city feels worlds away from the tranquil oasis of Susafa.
